On foot with Dino Campana

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Trekking along the wanderer's trail: from Marradi to Stia through all the localities mentioned by Campana in his "La Verna", Orphic Chants . From Marradi it is possible to reach Stia by way of an extraordinary mountain route that moves along the crests and through the valleys of the Mugello territory. It enters the heart of the Casentinesi, Monte Falterona and Campigna National Park. From Stia, Campana moved towards Verna by way, probably, of the Casentino valley, which is, today, ungratifying from an excusionistic point of view. It is for this reason that we have chosen to interupt the Trekking along the wanderer's trail at Stia.
The whole route can be divided into four sections with overnight stays in San Godenzo, near the Muraglione Pass, Castagno d'Andrea, in Campigna, and in Stia.

1) From Marradi to San Godenzo

Introductory and technical notes

Una vista di Marradi con la neveThe itinerary initially travelles through the Campigno valley, which Campana was know to cross by way of an ancient trail that is presently paved and touches, in parts, the road that links Biforco to Campigno. There is very little traffic along this road, and the mountain landscape through which it passes make it highly interesting. It is still possible to see age-old professions carried out along this route: sheep herding, horse rearing, wood cutting and transport on mules. From Campigno, therefore, the route is more scenic with ascents that lead to Cae Monte Filetto and the Apennines crests.Campana was know to move along two routes to reach Castagno d'Andrea, one from San Godenzo and one from the Muraglione Pass. We have, therefore, created two routes from Colla della Maestà. In one, the route descends towards Castagneto and then to San Godenzo; in the other, the route moves along the crests to the Muraglione Pass. (It is possible to take one route on your way, through San Godenzo for example, and the other on your way back, passing though the Muraglione Pass.)
The elevation gain in both cases is roughly 1070 metres, and it takes 8- 8.5 hours on foot. The itinerary can be travelled on horseback and, with some difficulty in certain areas, by MTB.

Access

Marradi can be reached by car from Florence or from Faenza by way of state road n. 302. The town can also be reached by train along the Faentina railway line. The railway line reserves numerous surprising sights and touches some of the most important localities in this part of the Apennines.

Description on foot

Trekking da Marradi a StiaFrom Marradi the route initially moves along state road n. 302 towards Florence. It reaches Biforco and from there moves left towards Campigno where the paved road leads into the valley. Along this road, "le rocce e il fiume" (the rocks and river), as Campana writes, are the sole protagonists. Their layers and layers of history lighten the heart of man, «strati su strati, monumenti di tenacia solitaria che consolano il cuore degli uomini», and the river, freshly bubbling in a docile melody, is a queen among the regal bends of the valley , «Per rendere il paesaggio, il paese vergine che il fiume docile a valle solo riempie del suo rumore di tremiti freschi, non basta la pittura, ci vuole l'acqua, l'elemento stesso, la melodia docile dell'acqua che si stende tra le forre dell'ampia rovina del suo letto, che dolce come l'antica voce dei venti incalza verso le valli in curve regali: poi chè essa è qui veramente la regina del paesaggio».
Once we reach Campigno, the route continues along a paved road to Farfareta and just before reaching this quaint location moves right along a paved road that is closed to traffic ( red and white arrow). It descends softly until it reaches the banks of the Campigno river. We cross it by way of a metal bridge. Once on the left bank, the route passes in front of a huge farm house and continues along the main road which, climbing steeply, rises quickly above the valley. The first house on the route, Gattalete, is situated at the edge of vast open field from which you can see the valley below and the "poverty of its homes" , Campigno. At Gattolete, we bypass a minor route on the right and move left along a dirt road that climbs along a rocky slope. The route turns right, ascending (we bypass the road that leads downwards) and entering the woods. We make a wide half circle to an open field where horses often graze. The ruins of Case Monte Filetto, often mentioned by Campana, are hidden by a lush vegetation, and are in an obvious state of abandonment. Moving along the main road, we cross the woods again, huge leafy beech trees surround us, and slowly ascend along the left bank of the river until we reach Le Fosse. Here, in a solitary mountain setting, we find an ancient hamlet which has maintained its original structure, typical of the numerous hamlets that dot the Apennines. We can still admire the Acacia "a tree that is dear to the night" which is able to «appear as a smoky dream» and the walnut tree which "in front of my room. At night it seems to gather the shadows and fold the dark singing leaves like a harvest of chants on the round milky, almost human, trunk." We move along the right of the houses, observing, below, a stone fount. We ascend along a dirt road through the woods and soon reach the crest. The route moves left (red and white signage, and also the yellow SOFT trail signs) along the crest past Monte Femmina Morta. It later reaches the trail that rises from Crespino sul Lamone. Bypassing the trail that goes right, we reach the main crest of the Apennines and trail n. 00 (GEA and Main SOFT trail).
On thMarradi, paesaggioe crest, we turn left up towards Poggio al Tiglio, then descend towards La Colla, where we find a small shelter, and then climb again along the sides of Monte Giogo di Villore. The trail, a dirt road made for tractors, is very scenic and overlooks the Mugello valley and the surrounding mountain crests. We bypass the dirt road that ascends from Villore, and keep just under the crests until we reach Porchellecchi, where a green antenna stands. We bypass a lane on the right and climb to the fork at 1010 m.a.s.l. To the left a dirt road moves along trails CAI n. 541 and SOFT n. 20. We bypass it and continue to climb along a minor trail, up along the crests, bypassing other trails that go left and right. We reach Monte Peschiena, the highest point of this tract of the Apennines, and continue, descending, along a trail that enters the beech wood. Once we leave the woods, we cross a wide road. On the other side we move along the trail that leads to a narrow dirt road. We reach Colla della Maestà along this route and here we meet a road from Fiera dei Poggi and the route offers two possible trails.

2) Itinerary for San Godenzo

Trekking da Marradi a Stia - La mappaFrom Colla della Maestà a green trunk indicates the trails in the area. We ignore the dirt road and move right along a wide forest trail that descends. We find red and white CAI signs along this trail. Lower down the signs move left while our route moves straight on. We continue along the main road (the two routes, however, meet lower down) descending along the edge of a forest, and then across an open field. The trail, rocky now, continues to descend, turning right, and, soon after, reaching the Moia farmhouse, surrounded by perfectly kept, age-old chestnut trees. We pass the house and cross a small bridge to a gate. Past the gate we move right, descending, along a path that is paved in tracts.
This route leads without fail to Castagneto (its name, chestnut woods, is indicative of the land around it) from which, along a narrow strip of asphalt, we reach the Muraglione Pass. We go right and, minutes later, enter San Godenzo.

Introductory and technical notes

Sui Monti di CampignoThe itinerary is all embracing and unwinds along the mountains that Campana knew best, in the area of Marradi. The elevation gain is above 580 metres, and it takes roughly 5 hours to walk. Given the elevation gain and, mostly, the length of the route, a certain amount of training is necessary. The paths are well marked and easy to find.
The entire route can be travelled on horseback or by mountain bike (some difficulty may be encountered in the area that from Fosse leads to the mountain crests).

Access

From Florence by way of State road n. 302, we reach Borgo San Lorenzo, Colla di Casaglia and, just before reaching Marradi, a locality called Biforco. The road to Campigno is on the right.

Description on foot

Sui Monti di Campigno - La schedaFrom Campigno you reach the locality of Porcellecchi, on the Apennines crests, as described later in the Marradi - San Godenzo itinerary that traces the steps of Campana. At the fork in the road at 1010 metres above sea level, you leave the trail along the ridge and move left along the CAI n. 541, and the SOFT n.20 trails. The route descends along a forestry path that, once at the secondary watershed between Fosso Campigno and Fosso Chiesine, moves down through sandstone outcrops and beech woods until it reaches Pian degli Arali. Once you reach the house, you leave the trail and move towards the fields. You cross Fosso Chiesine coasting along the right side, and continue to descend. Once past the crossing with the tabernacle, the route moves along a dirt road and reaches Fango (623 m.a.s.l.). You coast Poggio di Fango (588) heading north and, climbing, pass through a huge chestnut wood until you reach a trail that, on the left, follows the Campigno ditch heading northeast to Farfareta. From here the way back to Campigno is easy.

In the days spent first at Barco and then Casetta di Tiara, the couple certainly took long walks together "through the great woods", in the wild, solitary, natural setting of the Apennines. Surely Moscheta with its austere Abbey, halfway from Barco to Casetta, was a place the lovers visited often. The itinerary we suggest is a route that moves around Moscheta, a famous rest-stop for trekkers and excursionists, as well as horseback riders, and today the home of a museum of the Apennines landscape.

Introductory and technical notes

Nei Canyon di MoschetaThe route allows us to touch on two of the most spectacular valleys in the Firenzuola territory: Val del Vecchuone and Val del Rovigo. The first, just past Badia di Moscheta, is closed in on both sides by high walls that create a narrow passage called Valle dell'Inferno (the valley of hell). The second, above the locality of Lastra, is also closed in by stratified sandstone walls from which water often falls in rivulets. The route includes a 640 metre climb and takes roughly 7 hours on foot, which makes it accessible to experienced excursionists who have a knowledge of mountain trekking. The route cannot be travelled on horseback or by MTB because many of the corridors are very narrow.

Access

From Florence by way of state road n. 503 to San Piero a Sieve, then Scarperia, and up to the Giogo Pass, which descends to Barco and Rifredi. The road on the right, at Rifredi, leads to Moscheta.

Description on foot

Nei Canyon di Moscheta - La schedaFrom Badia di Moscheta the road leads to the fork for Poggio Roncaccio, as described in itinerary 1 of the Campana and Sibilla Aleramo excursion. From here the route goes right on to trail n. 701 CAI (Gea and the main SOFT route) along sections of the mountain crests. It leads to an important fork in the road. We take the track on the right (trail n. 739 and 741 CAI) towards Valle del Rovigo. We thus move along a secondary crest, leaving behind us, just a bit later, trail n. 739, which continues left along the main trail. Near the Pian dell'Aiara farmhouses, we leave the main trail and descend towards the left. It is possible, at this point, to choose whether to take this path or to remain on the main trail, both of which lead to the bottom of the Rovigo valley. If you feel up to it and are in good physical condition, however, we suggest you take the path which descends to the valley bottom much farther on, near one of the biggest waterfalls created by this river. Both routes descend to the valley and to Lastra, from which we turn back to Badia di Moscheta on the same route.

Dino Campana manifested his mental discomfort through his restlessness, which lead him to wander through the area around Marradi. The two itineraries described link the places the poet visited on his many pilgrimages along the crests and through the valleys of his native land, the land in which he matured and wrote his "Orphic Chants".

Introductory and technical notes

"The morning arid on the mountain tops.
High among the cusps of a desolate triangle
a castle is alight, higher and farther away."

Alla Rocca di CastiglioneThis is how Campana recalled one of the most breathtaking landscapes of Marradi, Rocca di Castiglione, which stands isolated on high ground not far from the town. The fortress can be reached on foot by following a marked path on a uphill climb of roughly 220 metres, and takes roughly 2 hours. The route is suited to almost anyone, including families with children.

Access

Marradi can be reached by car from Florence or from Faenza by way of state road n. 302, or by train on the Faentina railway line.

Description on foot

From Marradi the route moves along the state road towards Florence. Once past the fork for San BAlla Rocca di Castiglione - La schedaenedetto, the road moves right along a narrow bridge that crosses the Lamone River and then runs along the orographic left bank (left side following the flow). On the left a sliver of asphalt runs flat and then starts to rise until it reaches Via Cardeto. Take the route on the right, passing in front of the church and then ascending along the dirt road that leads to Podere Poggioli. New signage leads to an easy tract that takes you to the historical building with a beautiful square tower, which has been newly restored, and parts of the northern walls. The fortress probably once had an underground passage, a section of which is buried, but whose exit is still visible. The descent follows a paved road that leads to the state road near Ponte di Camurano. Turn left on the state road and, just before Biforco, take Via Cardato left and back to the starting point.

Introductory and technical notes

The route runs along, for the most part, the ancient road that linked Palazzuolo sul Senio to Marradi, a road which, therefore, may have been travelled by Campana.

Da Palazzuolo sul Senio a MarradiThe road, in fact, is dotted with farm houses that once offered refuge and aid to anyone who travelled here. In particular we find the 17th century Villa di Gruffieto, a grand residence that, notwithstanding a part that is in ruins, maintains its elegant architectural style. The trail ascends more that 510 metres and takes from 3 to 4 hours to walk.

It is not possible to take the route on horseback, because in the first section from Palazzuolo sul Senio there are two steep metal stairways, and in the part that descends towards Marradi, you must climb a number of ladders to pass over fences. It can be covered by MTB if you take the alternative route described below.

Access

Palazzuolo sul Senio can be reached from Florence by car along state road 302, which leads to Borgo San Lorenzo and Colla di Casaglia. From the Colla, the route goes left onto state road 477 to Palazzuolo.

Itinerary on foot

From Palazzuolo sul Senio the route moves along the road to Marradi but, just outside the town, once past the bridge, it leaves the paved road and climbs left along a steep grassy hill (red and white signage n. 519). It immediately reaches a metal stairway leading to the water deposit. It climbs steeply and, by way of another ladder, crosses over a fence and into the pine wood forest overlooking Palazzuolo, offering a breathtaking view. Just below a restored farm house, a paved road leads left. It soon becomes a dirt road and crosses an ancient, well kept, chestnut forest. Maintaining these forests, mostly chestnut, is one of the many important duties of the towns of Palazzuolo and Marradi.

The Da Palazzuolo a Marradi - La schedaroute turns widely through the chestnut forest, reaching an area where the chestnuts are dried and then, shortly after, straight up to the top of the crest. We leave the marked paths behind and follow the route up to the peak: this is the ancient route for Marradi. It leads, farther up, to the fields of Campo d'Olivo, a wonderfully restored farm estate. The route moves around the property and down the rocky path that starts here.

Soon after, the signs lead off the road and ascend left towards the Bacero, an abandoned farmhouse. It is, however, best to continue on the path which leads quickly to another dirt road. Here we turn right, and shortly after leave it, turning left on the marked trail. We cross a forest and come out onto an open field with a beautiful view. It is a wonderful place to stop and rest, or picnic in the sun. At the other end of the field, we take the dirt road left. After a few metres, we leave this new path to descend left towards Villa di Gruffietto, whose red roof was visible from above. We enter another chestnut wood and, moving downhill, reach the villa. We move along the right of the property until we reach a dirt ro ad. The route climbs right a few hundred metres until it reaches the white and red trail sign, which we follow, pointing to the trail that climbs along the side of Monte Gamberaldi.

Veduta di Marradi

The path crosses trail n. 505 from Croce Daniele. We go right, and just above Ca' Mondera leave trail n. 505 for trail n. 519 on the left. The descent that takes us to Marradi starts here. This road, in tracts, offers glimpses of the underlying Medieval road. At Ca' Mondera we continue softly downhill towards Ca' del Falco and, after a steeper descent, reach Ca' del Vento. From the crests, therefore, moving swiftly downhill, the route takes us to Marradi and the state road just in front of the station.

Alternative route for MTB

From Palazzuolo sul Senio the route moves along the road to Marradi for roughly 5 kilometres until we reach Valico S. Ilario. On the left, a trail marked n. 505 is clearly visible.

The route moves along this trail to a farmhouse and then just above Ca' Mondera. Trail n. 519 for Marradi descends towards the right from here, following the directions described in the itinerary on foot, which is also suited for MTB.